Our pre-cruise visit to Egypt was organized at the last minute because of a late change in the original cruise itinerary. Two days didn't seem nearly long enough but it would have to do, that's all we had. It also meant that we wouldn't get any real sleep for almost five days. Despite all that, we knew we had to do it and everything fell into place so effortlessly that we just had to go for it.
Egypt was everything I had thought it would be and more. Being there allows you to grasp the essence of this ancient place in a way that no book, movie or history lesson can convey. Feeling the grit in your mouth as the wind picks up the desert sand in the Giza plateau; seeing the entrances to the tombs of the slaves who died while building the pyramids; tasting the sweetness of a sugar pie from a local bakery, so fresh it is still too hot to eat; standing next to the Sphinx, which turns out to be smaller than you thought it would be and yet larger than life. I'm so glad we came.
The population of Egypt is about 90 million people and approximately 21 million of them call Cairo home. It is the largest city in Africa and the Middle East and was founded 1,400 years ago where the Nile widens into a fertile delta. Cairo is a hectic place; people honk their horns all the time; not in the aggressive, exasperated way you hear in South America or even Europe, more like a short warning toot which most of the time seems to be just for the heck of it. There is garbage strewn about, there is insane traffic where cars on seven lane-wide avenues are constantly shifting lanes for no discernible reason, and every one of them toots their horn as they go.
Without the Nile there would be no Egypt. The river creates a long verdant strip that splits the country from the south to the north where, having traveled through Africa from its source in Lake Victoria, it empties into the Mediterranean Sea. The Old Kingdom started in the 3rd millenium BC with the uniting of Upper and Lower Egypt under the first king Menes. Its capital was Memphis, south of Cairo, and then Luxor. This is when the Kheops and Khephren pyramids where built at Giza. The country then begins its decline and breaks up into small kingdoms. Finally, under king Mentuhotep I, the kingdom reunites, Thebes becomes the capital and the arts and literature reach their zenith. Then it is invaded by the Hyksos with their horse chariots.
During the 16th to 12th centuries BC the New Kingdom is once more reunited, it becomes an imperial state extending its borders and power, and reaches the greatest period in history. This is where a new religion is briefly introduced replacing all the Egyptian gods with one god, Aton. And on and off it goes, from invasions to reunification, until Alexander the Great conquers Egypt in 332 BC. This is the Late Period, during which Cleopatra reigns. She seduces Julius Ceasar and when he dies she gives her support to Mark Anthony who gives her back part of the empire. There is a big naval battle, and Octavian claims Egypt as a Roman province. Dear old Cleo commits suicide.
An Arab invasion begins the spread of islam and in 969 AD Cairo becomes the new capital. The Ottoman Turks conquer Egypt in 1517, it is later occupied by Napoleon and the French begin restoration of monuments and tumbs. The 1800s, under the reign of Mohammed Ali, see the modernization of Egypt and the Suez Canal opens in 1869. Egypt is under British occupation from 1882 until World War II but power remains with the British until it is declared a republic in 1952 when Nasser becomes head of state. He is succeeded by Sadat until he is assassinated in 1981 and Mubarak takes control for the next 30 years until early 2011, when a revolution results in Mubarak's ousting and the dissolution of the constitution and parliament. Morsi takes over the presidency in 2012 but a popular uprising puts an end to his rule merely a year later when, in June of 2013 a military interim government is set up. The military holds control but word is that the Muslim Brotherhood is managing to infiltrate the higher military ranks and this spells more trouble ahead.
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